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My understanding is, as you increase the cutter angle, you reduce the cutter tip engagement slightly, and that reduces deflection a little. It would be hard to measure any benefit to be honest, but I think with minimal deflection, you probably get a better finish. Too much angle, and you get an out of balance tool, and that gives you a problem too. I've seen some of the big youtubers create flat bottomed (larger diameter) fly cutters too. So yes you can definitely do it either way.

​@@CraigsWorkshop ​ Thanks Craig. As I see it, the shallow finishing depth of cut is usually less than the tool tip radius, so the engagement will be the same, just on another part of the tip radius. Round button inserts are possibly ideal for deeper cuts for this reason ( and the cusps blend smoother ). Using tangential tip engagement is probably the most influential improvement to reduce deflection, impact chatter and ultimately surface finish.

Hi there. It is called "Jigs and Fixtures", written by Colvin and Haas, published by McGraw Hill in 1913, 1922 as part of the "Library of Machine Shop Practice" series. I hope that helps you track it down.

It's the other way around. Smaller wheels are rated to go faster than bigger wheels. So a smaller wheel on a bigger machine is usually fine. I am always careful to double check though and it was definitely safe in this case.

You will probably need to supplement your vise with a couple of machinist jacks (even home made ones from coupling nuts plus bolts - I have another video on that), Ideally your jacks have a V-groove in the top, and also hopefully you have some hold down clamps which you can use directly above the jacks, so it doesn't deflect the round bar. (And - move them when the cut approaches, of course). As for sliding the work along so you can reach all of it - between cuts you should be able to use a DTI or a dial indicator, attached to the head of the mill, to tram in the top face of the existing flat that you have made. Then you can get the flat perfectly level for each subsequent pass. You may be able to clamp a parallel or similar to the flat, to make it easier to measure with the indicator. Good luck! If any of this is unclear, let me know.

No problem. I grew up with both, and can convert no problem, but have been standardising on metric for a while now. My two current lathes are both metric. My mill isn't, but the DRO helps me pretend that it is :)

Thanks mate. I appreciate the nice comment. I have been a bit quiet on youtube recently, but I haven't given up. Just super busy with non-workshop things. I'll get back to it. Good to have you around. Cheers, Craig

Best of luck! This video was gold. Showed a couple mistakes and what to watch out for. Short and sweet. Your correct the other fly cutting videos I’ve seen are long and over engineered so you’re the only one so far keeping it simple.

Thank you!

Interestingly, they never did.

Thanks Jason. Kind words. Good luck with your build!

Sorry, I thought I mentioned those. I don't have formal plans for this fly cutter. But I'll try to relay the important dimensions here: The round bar I start with is 75mm diameter, and just gets a clean up pass. The stem is to suit whatever collet you are using, mine is 20mm diameter, 40mm long. The angle across the end of the body is 10 degrees, and the slot is 12mm square + clearance, to suit a 12mm shank insert tool. The other dimensions are not very important. Thanks!

@@CraigsWorkshop thank you sir

Thanks very much. Hope yours turned out well!

😁 Nice to have a Monty Python Connoisseur in the audience!

Thanks for your message. First up, I would definitely get a smaller lathe like a myford, emco or South bend/hercus as a first lathe if I had not used any other lathe before. This is my fourth or fifth lathe and I started machining in about 2017. But this model is very close to an AL1000D I believe, from Machinery House here in Australia. If I were looking for a new lathe which would last for decades, and with money being no object, probably a big Colchester! I expect that will always be a bit too expensive for me though, so a new AL1000D would still be a very good option, and would last for decades. Any lathe will last, as long as you look after it properly. A lot of lathe choice comes down to what size job you intend to do, and how many convenience features you want. Thanks, Craig

That's absolutely right 😁

Aluminium bronze

🥲😂 Thanks Jason

🥲 Thanks

👋 Welcome man in da shed, Jon is a good lad. I hope you enjoy your stay! 🙂

Thanks, I appreciate the great comment! Good luck with the build. One step at a time and it will all fall into place at the end.

Thank you, that makes me happy 🙂👍

Thanks Paul, glad you enjoyed. 👍

I did recently change that wheel for a better and bigger one, but the screws it had went into metal and they stayed where I put them for the best part of 3.5 years 👍 I love your idea of making a cut off wheel mount! I do have a D bit grinder here too, and a tool and cutter grinder here ready for restoration so the T&CG will probably get the bulk of my attention in future. But at least one of these will get a cut off wheel hub at some point. Good thinking

Thanks. I haven't tried that, no. Since doing this video (years later) I upgraded my wire wheel from that 150mm one to a 200mm one which suits the size of machine, and the balance of the newer wheel is pretty good out of the box.

Thanks Kevin. Yes it was an absolute mission but good fun in a way too! Merry Christmas to you and the family too 🙂

😬 Sounds like a big headache! Well done for completing them!

Thanks!

I think coolant is more necessary with HSS than carbide, and even with carbide will make the tool last longer, and may give a nicer finish. One of the problems with a fly cutter is they make a big mess though, stuff flies in all directions, so I recommend getting some old scraps of acrylic sheet, and making some guards to cut down how far the swarf and spray can travel.

Hi. On the front of the workshop near the woodwork area (at that time) is a large roller door and it is ground level. Living space is above. Hope that answers!

Thanks Mumblebee! Rusty is fine in the workshop when I'm doing minor jobs, but not when I'm grinding and throwing chips and swarf. (Instead he will do a shift in the the living room, dutifully protecting the sofa from the suns powerful rays! )

Thanks Paul. Yes - if I did more of this kind of work a sensitive drill attachment which I could put in to drill, mill or lathe, would be a nice idea! If a project like these burners comes to me again in future, it may be cause for a small side project :-)

😂 Great song, you'll bounce back!

@@CraigsWorkshop 🤣😂

Cheers! Merry Christmas to you too! :)

Thanks. Yes, sadly the burners are at their new home now, so I won't get chance to see them working. But, the new owner says they work excellently, so I will have to take his word for it! Cheers, Craig

@@CraigsWorkshopCould they maybe take a picture? 😊

@@mumblbeebee6546 They did offer video footage when they took delivery, and I enthusiastically said "yes please!" but it came through as something like 240x240 resolution and you can't see what's going on. So yes, maybe I'll just ask for a photo. That's a good idea thanks :)

Cheers Rob. Yes it was good practise at least 😂

I was fresh out of H2SO4 😂

Craig…. Really top work ma😢e. Stainless is a bitch st the best of times. I applaud your patience… those small holes are a marathon effort. The customer should be extremely happy with the finished article. Regards, Robert PS 👏👏👏 for being able to sharpen those drills mate 👍

Thanks Robert - much appreciated!

Thank you Yves! Merry Christmas to you all too. Thanks for all your support!

Thanks Craig! Same for you, Merry Christmas!